My adventure aboard Rovos Rail was a long time coming. Having booked for 2020, it only became possible to climb aboard in 2022. My chosen route of Cape Town to Dar es Salaam takes just over two weeks to wend its way from South Africa to Botswana, Victoria Falls, Zambia and finally Tanzania. Quite the Africa adventure!
The scene is set in the Rovos Rail lounge at Cape Town station, adorned with photos and memorabilia from days gone by. Drinks, canapes and classical music were the backdrop to a welcome from the founder and owner of Rovos Rail, Rohan Vos, clearly thrilled to have international visitors back onboard.
My Pullman Suite was beautifully appointed with plenty of storage room, an ensuite bathroom and air-conditioning – important as you head into the tropics. Fine teak paneling and traditional furnishings further evoke the glory days of 1920s rail travel.
Our first stop was at the historic village of Matjiesfontein in the arid Karoo area of the Western Cape. Time here to wander this very quaint town and for me, a chance to join the locals at the pub to watch the All Blacks beat the Wallabies! From here it was an overnight journey on to Kimberley and a chance to visit the ‘big hole’ from where some of the world’s largest and most famous diamonds have been extracted. Think the crown jewels! How these precious gems originate from very deep inside the earth’s crust is fascinating.
All that sightseeing creates an appetite! The food on the train can only be described as superb, always paired with an incredible selection of excellent South African wines and liqueurs. All meals were served a la carte, and no menu was ever repeated over the two-week trip – quite astounding when you consider the limitations of a galley kitchen! Evening dining is a formal affair, with a great social atmosphere, enhanced by the onboard team who were eternally pleasant. As all meals and drinks are included, those manning the bar in the lounge and the open-air observation car earned their keep!
A thrilling opportunity to experience the true sense of Africa at its very best.
Chris Lyons
Heading directly north we spent two nights off-train in the Madikwe Private Game Reserve on the border with Botswana. Tau Lodge was a comfortable base from which to explore the reserve and its unbelievable array of wildlife. Expert rangers led our game drives in open vehicles, and Day 1 sightings alone included both black and white rhino (rare to find together), elephants aplenty, a lioness with cubs, two male cheetahs hunting, a black back jackal, large herds of zebra, African buffalo and a variety of antelope along with some very colourful birds. A thrilling opportunity to experience the true sense of Africa at its very best.
Crossing into Zimbabwe, the train was joined by Nicholas, an historian who has been offering lectures to Rovos Guests for over 25 years, on topics ranging from Cecil Rhodes to the current economic woes of Africa. Nicholas’ relaxed and very informative style was thoroughly enjoyed by all.
At Victoria Falls we were treated to a night at the iconic Victoria Falls Hotel, truly a ‘grande dame’ full of colonial charm. Overlooking the Zambezi River, the hotel is a mere 10-minute walk from the falls, known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya which translates to ‘the smoke that thunders’. Millions of litres of water crash over the falls causing huge plumes of mist and some spectacular rainbows, all watched over by the imposing statue of the explorer David Livingstone. We enjoyed a sumptuous dinner in the hotel’s glorious ‘Livingstone Room’ and the next day was spent touring the falls, while others took helicopter overflights, played golf and shopped in the colourful markets.
Just out of Victoria Falls the train stopped on the impressive bridge over the Zambezi River for some photo opportunities before striking north into Zambia. The landscape changed to more lush vegetation and a great variety of crops, from corn to bananas, cassava and peanuts.
We returned the friendly smiles and waves offered by villagers, passed through some colonial era railways stations and enjoyed stunning views from the top of Chisimba Falls. Crossing into Tanzania brought impressive baobab trees and an ascent up the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley to the Udzungwa Mountains, negotiating some dramatic switchbacks, tunnels and viaducts.
A final treat and highlight was a safari in the vast Selous Game Reserve, Africa’s largest. There is a good chance of spotting the ‘Big 5’ animals here (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and African buffalo) and the park is also famous for its rare and endangered wild dog.
At last, 15 days and some 5,800 km after leaving Cape Town, the train rolled into Dar es Salaam. Africa can grasp you like almost nowhere else – the people, the landscapes, the wildlife, the sunsets and of course the opulent style and service of Rovos Rail. Fond memories of this journey will remain with me forever.
Take a look at some of our luxury rail journeys with Rovos Rail:
Cape Town to Dar es Salaam, 16 days: South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania
Trail of Two Oceans, 15 days: Tanzania, Zambia, DRC, Angola
The Namibia Journey, 10 days: South Africa, Namibia
Pretoria to Cape Town, 4 days: South Africa
Pretoria to Victoria Falls, 4 days, South Africa, Zimbabwe
For more luxury rail journeys with World Journeys, go to worldjourneys.co.nz/rail-journeys/
