From the moment we stepped onboard the Eastern & Oriental Express it felt like being transported back into the golden age of travel. A far cry from this train’s origins as the iconic Silver Star, running an overnight sleeper-service between Auckland and Wellington in the 1970s!
Impeccably dressed cabin attendants welcomed passengers with big smiles before escorting us to our luxurious State Cabin complete with full ensuite bathroom, where we sunk into plush chairs, and settled into a sense of awe at our surroundings. The feel was old-world charm, understated glamour and luxury without a hint of pretentious – we relaxed instantly! A taste of things to come arrived as the train pulled out of the station and our gorgeous cabin attendant turned up with afternoon tea on a silver tray, complete with a pot of tea, delicate sandwiches and a huge smile – is there anything more divine!
Walking through the carriages the rich burgundy and gold carpets were soft underfoot and with each carriage connected by a walkway it was easy to move about exploring the train. First stop was the Dior Spa – yes, you read that right, there is a spa carriage onboard the train complete with two treatment rooms and a gift shop. We were in heaven, our bank accounts not so much.
Our State Cabin was supremely comfortable and well considered, the layout spacious enough for two with ingenious little cubby holes and hiding places for storage. By day the cabin was a peaceful retreat in which to relax and watch the world go by. By night it was magically transformed into a twin bedroom, with a daily gift appearing on our beautifully prepared beds each evening. Running on narrow gauge tracks, the gentle rocking side-to-side helped lull us into a blissful slumber.
The two restaurant cars, each with their own unique décor, were again luxurious – tables beautifully set yet comfortable enough to feel at ease. The crew also struck the perfect balance with their delightful combination of professional service and warm sense of humour engaging all onboard.
The onboard cuisine was of course exceptional and it was clear this was going to be a culinary journey for the senses; all while being served endless amounts of champagne. You will need some stretchy pants on this train! And if lunch or dinner wasn’t enough, the train offers two bar lounges – one at its heart and the other at the rear, both convivial spots to engage with fellow passengers.

The open-air observation carriage was the perfect retreat: sink into a plush armchair, enjoy a cup of tea, or have the bartender create you a cocktail, then step out into the open to feel the wind in your hair as the train winds past palm plantations, dramatic limestone hills, and lush jungle.


The excursions in Taman Negara National Park included a selection based on photography, wellness activities, a cave visit, and nature tours. Formed 130 million years ago, this is one of the oldest tropical rainforests in the world. The dense jungle, wide rivers and lush mountains are home to wildlife including water buffalo, macaques, tapirs, hornbills and the Malayan tiger.
Kate opted for an e-bike excursion to Merapoh Caves and loved it. “Our guides were charming, helpful, knowledgeable and one was a caving expert who also showed us a number of medicinal uses for some of the forest plants (want to know how to stop the bleeding after a leech bite? Want to avoid getting pregnant? Buff your fingernails? Hit me up, I got you) as well as pointing out various fruits, rubber and palm plantations”.
I chose a photography tour, and enjoyed walking through the forest learning how to best capture it’s wild and beautiful nature.
Disembarking at Butterworth Station, it was off on a chartered ferry to the cultural melting-pot of Penang Island. This time I opted for a culinary tour which started in the colourful markets, buying the produce and spices for a fun and very hands-on cooking class in a boutique hotel atop Penang Hill, with stunning views equalling the mouth-watering aromas!
Kate embarked on a tour of the street art found in Penang’s historic George Town. Awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2008, the government marked the occasion with a competition for painters and sculptors to give the town its own unique flavour, generating a remarkable array of street art which reflects the town’s history, culture and vibrant local life.
Of course, our attentive train staff were always there to welcome us back from these excursions with cold towels – providing a refreshing escape from the heat, followed by “Miss D and Miss Kate would you like champagne?”.

Overall, this journey offered the perfect balance of time to relax onboard while also enjoying the off-train excursions. It truly took us back to the days when travellers dressed for the occasion and were onboard for the journey, not just the destination.
Our Wild Malaysia itinerary aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express, a Belmond Train, is a four-day round-trip from Singapore with departures from April through to October.
• View this itinerary – Wild Malaysia
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