A tropical paradise with incredible scenic beauty, birdlife and marine biodiversity, this region is best explored aboard a pinisi. These traditional Indonesian two-masted sailing ships were originally introduced to the region by the Dutch around 1600 and are still used today for inter-island trade and transport.  SeaTrek’s versions are of course kitted out with a motor, and all the guest comforts you need.

We cruised from Sorong through landscapes of karst limestone spires, encountering seldom-visited villages, vast caves, ancient rock paintings, endless secret coves and an incredible underwater world.

You don’t have to be a snorkelling aficionado to enjoy Raja Ampat, and I’d figured this might be something I try once or twice. How wrong was I? Completely hooked after Day 1! 

It was like discovering another world existed below the surface of the water. A world full of colour, fantastical creatures, and other-worldly seascapes of seaweeds, corals and fish, some of which could have been any of the above, for all I could tell! 

Snorkelling along happily then seeing the reef drop off into a deep bottomless abyss was an unnerving feeling, like you were witnessing the end of the earth, but the creatures on the reef wall were so compelling that feeling was quickly dispelled.   Goofy looking humphead wrasse, hawkbill sea turtles, giant clams, and an incredible array of nudibranchs were my favourites.

Our guide Dion was a walking, snorkelling, encyclopaedia of in-depth knowledge, which really rounded out the experience.

The otherworldly experiences continued as we swam in a freshwater lake in the Misool Archipelago among masses of rare stingless jellyfish – quite a surreal experience!

We also swam above enormous yet graceful manta rays doing belly rolls below us in a mesmerising pattern.

One excursion saw us dropped off on an island to snorkel and swim through a giant dome-roofed sea cave filled with massive stalagmites and stalactites.

On zodiac excursions we sidled up to prehistoric cave paintings, estimated to be anything between 3,000 to 5,000 years old. These fascinating remnants from the past depicted human figures, human hands, fish and flowers.

We also had the opportunity to regain our land legs on jungle walks in search of rare Birds of Paradise. Watching their treetop antics and hearing their calls was just reward for the hike.

An absolute highlight was a visit to a small village, interacting with the friendly locals and the delightful school kids for whom this was quite an occasion.

Relaxing on deck with a book and a cool drink was always an option, but with so much else on offer it was enjoyed only on the rare occasion.  Having dolphins accompany us as we sailed into the sunset was a simply magical moment.

I truly feel that the casual, authentic nature of a SeaTrek cruise suits the Kiwi travelling style perfectly. All the creature comforts you need, no pretentions, and David Attenborough moments on a daily basis. Just go!